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Posts for March, 2010

South Africa – from Battlefields to Beach

posted, March 1st, 2010

South Africa was great. The weather was really good and the various stops were super. In detail:

Fugitives Drift –v good lodge/hotel rooms in cottages round the garden, large, well furnished and comfortable with good views. Food was excellent and the staff attentive. Rob Caskey, who did our battlefield tours was very good. A real raconteur, with some interesting ideas about the battles based on discussions with the Zulus.

Singa Lodge –a good lodge hotel, on the sea front at Port Elizabeth. Interesting decor, well presented room (open plan bathroom!). They produced us a good meal despite our late arrival because of flight delays. Swimming pool a bit “green” but then they are in the middle of an acute water shortage.

Amakhala, Safari Lodge –another v good lodge hotel. The food was excellent and the cottages well fitted and comfortable with views over a local waterhole. The game drives were very good (and our ranger was marvellous). We saw lots of animals, some very close up. I even have photos of a leopard (I am not admitting that it was in a pen) and a civet. At the slightest suggestion I shall bore everyone with our pictures!

Hog Hollow Lodge –undoubtedly the best hotel, situated on the edge of a gorge with marvellous views. The rooms were spacious and comfortable and the food exceptional. Plettenberg has quite a lot to do (although we did not go far), the beaches were divine and the area would be quite a good location for a family holiday and the Hotel was child-friendly (baby-sitting service etc).

Franschoek –a delightful, if rather “manicured” little town.   The Akademie Guesthouse was super, large room, very comfortable, excellent breakfasts and free minibar! We spent a day in the town (and the restaurants are every bit as good as they claim) and visited Stellenbosch, older part interesting, on our way to Cape Town

Cape Town -4 Rosmead is very comfortable and the breakfasts good. The duty managers were most helpful. Reasonable local restaurants (and one really good one, the Aubergine, a short taxi ride away). We did Robben Island (a “must see” but not exactly enjoyable), Table Mountain, the V&A Waterfront, Green Market Square and the derive down to Cape Point. The “red” tour on the open-topped bus is well worthwhile.

The driving wasn’t the problem that I thought it might be. I read plenty of comments about SA’s bad drivers –I have seen much worse here. The expressways were super (and the traffic on them pretty light by our standards). Secondary roads in KwaZulu-Natal were usually potholed and the dirt roads take a bit of getting used to. Further south there were no real problems although all the journey times (culled, I suspect, from the accommodation websites) were significant underestimates (and we are not particularly slow drivers).   I would recommend breaking both the Johannesburg-Fugitives Drift (5½ hours specified, 7½ hours actual, including a lunch stop) and the Plettenberg Bay-Franschoek (about 6½ actual, admittedly on much easier roads) trips. The satnav was a godsend once we had got to Fugitives Drift (with which it could not cope).

 Similarly, we did not find security particularly difficult. Yes, everywhere is surrounded by high fences, often electrified, but we did not feel threatened at any time, even when we walked back from the local restaurant in Cape Town (all of 100 yards!). 
Altogether a really memorable holiday. Thank you so much for arranging it.